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Living in Rome under the shadow of coronavirus

  • March 14, 2020

Ten days after the Italian government closed schools nationwide, five days after it announced a full lockdown and two days after it signed a decree for an even wider shutdown, I stood on my home balcony in Rome belting out the national anthem.

In the building across from me — in fact, in the buildings all up and down my street — people sang along from their balconies and windows, clapping and hooting and banging on drums.

Under strict government directives to step out only to purchase food or medicine, for necessary work assignments or health emergencies, with stores, restaurants, cafes and even parks now closed, Romans joyfully embraced their first vertical flash mob in a boisterous expression of solidarity.

Read more: Coronavirus: Who is particularly at risk and why?

Living under quarantine signifies a profound change in habits for any country. But for cultures like Italy’s, where physical affection is the norm and so much of life is still spent in the company of others — congregating in piazzas, sitting around the dinner table, clustering in outdoor bars and cafes with friends and strangers alike — keeping your distance is a Herculean task.

Before the latest decree that closed most parks I was walking home from the Italian Foreign Press Bureau, now shuttered, under the shade of glossy magnolia trees in the magnificent Villa Borghese park. I spotted two dear friends and waved to them. Instinctively, we rushed toward each other, only to suddenly halt and raise our hands in an unconscious gesture of self-defense.

We laughed, a bit embarrassed, and moved on to catching up, which for the past several weeks in Italy means talk about the coronavirus. But standing more than a meter away changed the tone of the conversation, stripped it of a kind of intimacy, and soon we said goodbye and went our separate ways.

‘Keep your distance!’

Those who work at the checkout and food counters in supermarkets have, for all intents and purposes, become front-line workers and their nerves are fraying.

The other day, the usually chatty woman at the fish counter snapped at a customer when he pointed, with gloved hands, too closely to the kind of calamari he wanted.

“Mantenga le distanze!” — Keep your distance!” she said. Her usual friendliness only returned when he asked advice on what to sauté calamari with — potatoes — to leave them tender.

At least, thanks no doubt in part to bidets, there have been no runs on toilet paper in Italy.

Read more: Coronavirus, cold, or flu symptoms: Should I see a doctor?

It’s not just the physical adjustments and losses. Not just the endless hand-washing, the compulsive wiping down of phones, computers and door handles with alcohol or bleach. Not just the sudden veering away from the person on the street who sneezes or coughs.

It’s the challenges in imagination: the not easy exercise of imagining a plausible, short-term, worst-case scenario and deciding what’s best.

Castel Sant'Angelo in Rome, deserted

Castel Sant’Angelo in Rome, usually full of tourists, has been deserted in recent days

My mother-in-law, about to turn 88, phoned me, paralyzed by indecision. She lives alone in a central Italian city. She stocked up on food two weeks ago when she stopped going out, but secluded in her small apartment, she’s going stir-crazy.

Should she, she asked, take the train to a town in northern Italy where her niece, a retired doctor, lives alone? On the one hand, it would put her at risk of infection just to get there. On the other hand, it would provide her with company and support if she were to get sick. If she waited, would trains even be running in a few days? And then stuck at home, how would this socially exuberant and now desperately lonely woman manage psychologically?

“I’m reading and watching the television,” she said, “but I don’t have all the technology that you young people have that let you see each other on those screens. I wish I’d learned.”

Read more: Coronavirus: How Germany is showing solidarity amid the outbreak

A young Filipino mother of a 2-year-old boy I know here in Rome also called. After waiting for months for a visa to join her husband in Canada, she’d bought their one-way tickets to Toronto. But — bad luck — the flights were canceled the day before she was set to leave and she’s now stuck, alone indoors with her young son, for the next weeks.

She’s stocked up on food, but when I suggest she take a short walk with him in the stroller to avoid cabin fever, she says, “I’m too scared.”

William, the 30-year-old Nigerian migrant who until last week stood outside my local bakery, available for odd jobs and begging for money, is also alone, though with just a few packages of rice and spaghetti. Until a week ago he shared a tiny apartment with a fellow Nigerian, before he left to stay with family.

“It’s hard to explain,” he said slowly, when I called to check in. “This is part of life. This is part of what can happen in life.” Then he, a man who risked his life to cross the Mediterranean on a rickety boat, adds, “I am not happy for the older women who are dying. It is the older women that give me money. The older women who help me.”

He’s worried about the virus spreading to Africa. “The pastor tells us to pray for everyone. Black people and white people.”

  • Empty shelves in a German supermarket

    How is coronavirus affecting life in Germany?

    Food donations drop

    Panic-buying has left empty shelves in supermarkets — and food banks. With Germans snapping up canned goods and toilet paper to weather the outbreak, stores have fewer supplies left over to donate to the needy, said Jochen Brühl, head of Tafel Deutschland, which supports more than 1.5 million people with surplus groceries and other donations. Brühl encouraged those who had overreacted to donate.

  • A fan dressed as a ghost sits alone in a stadium

    How is coronavirus affecting life in Germany?

    Bundesliga behind closed doors

    Health Minister Jens Spahn has urged that all events with more than 1,000 participants be called off. The German Football League (DFL) has suspended the Bundesliga until April 2, saying health was a “top priority” and reversing a previous decision to play in empty stadiums. The derby between FC Cologne and Borussia Mönchengladbach on March 11 was the first Bundesliga “ghost match,” without fans.

  • A sign blocking the entrance to the Leipzig Book Fair, saying No entrance

    How is coronavirus affecting life in Germany?

    Cultural cancellations

    Cultural life has also taken a hit, with major fairs and trade shows canceled or postponed. Among the casualties were the Leipzig Book Fair and the Musikmesse Frankfurt, Europe’s biggest music trade fair. Numerous clubs, galleries and museums have closed across the country, and the gala award show for the annual German film and television award, the Goldene Kamera, has been moved to November.

  • An empty classroom

    How is coronavirus affecting life in Germany?

    Schools set to close

    Unlike in Italy, schools across Germany have remained open. As of mid-March that is set to change as many states close schools for several weeks, some until after the Easter holidays in mid-April.

  • A man sits inside an empty Chinese restaurant in central Milan

    How is coronavirus affecting life in Germany?

    Not the ‘Wuhan flu’

    The Chinese origin of the virus has led to an increase in xenophobic sentiment in the places worst hit by the outbreak. Asian restaurants and stores — not just Chinese — have reported empty tables in countries hard hit by the pandemic, and people with Asian features have experienced discrimination. At a recent Bundesliga game in Leipzig, a group of Japanese fans was ejected from the stadium.

  • A Lufthansa Airbus 320-200 parks at Düsseldorf airport, behind a bright red light

    How is coronavirus affecting life in Germany?

    Flights grounded

    German airline Lufthansa has massively reduced its flight capacity as business and personal travel is cut back. The flagship carrier is now seeking state aid, according to a report from Germany business newspaper Handelsblatt. Lufthansa CEO Carsten Spohr will be attending a meeting with German Chancellor Angela Merkel, according to government sources.

  • A worker completes an electric car body at the assembly line at the plant of the German manufacturer Volkswagen AG (VW) in Zwickau, eastern Germany

    How is coronavirus affecting life in Germany?

    Car production crippled

    Car plants in China have been shut down since January, and major German automakers like Volkswagen and Daimler have said both sales and production have been hit by the epidemic. And with many automakers sourcing electric car parts from China, work at plants in Germany has also hit a stumbling block. Berlin has said it plans to financially support companies suffering coronavirus losses.

  • People visit the dome of the Reichstag building in Berlin

    How is coronavirus affecting life in Germany?

    Fewer tourists

    “The consequences for the German tourism sector are serious,” warned Guido Zöllick, head of the German Hotel and Restaurant Association. Already by the second week of March, 76.1% of members had reported a sharp decrease in bookings and a drop in revenue. The German parliament has banned tourists from visiting the glass dome of the Reichstag building until further notice.

  • Border authorities check the temperature of a traveler in the Czech Republic

    How is coronavirus affecting life in Germany?

    Border checks

    After Italy and France, Germany has the largest number of coronavirus cases in Europe. In an effort to prevent further spread, authorities in Poland and the Czech Republic have begun spot checks, measuring the temperature of travelers crossing main road borders out of Germany. Poland plans to extend the controls to other railway and port crossings.

    Author: Martin Kuebler


Shows of solidarity

As Italy — and now much of the world — absorbs this radical shift in how we live, the shows of solidarity continue.

Saturday at noon, Romans took to their windows and terraces once again to cheer in recognition and gratitude for the health care workers risking — and sacrificing — their lives to care for the thousands of sick and hospitalized.

And there are more balcony appointments planned for the coming evenings.

After the last one, someone on the roof of a nearby building — I couldn’t see who — played his guitar and sang a few Italian folk songs. We, my neighbors whom I was seeing for the first time and I, stayed at our windows and on our terraces, listening.

There are people sick and dying and many more who will suffer great economic hardship because of this virus. But for that moment, it felt like sweet compensation.

  • Disneyland Paris (picture alliance)

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    Disneyland Paris to close

    Disneyland Paris and Disney World in Florida are to close until the end of the month. Disney Cruise Line will suspend all new departures through the same time period. The company said the decision was made “with great caution” to protect guests and employees. The company said the parks in Tokyo, Hong Kong and Shanghai, which had already been closed, will also remain shut.

  • Winter in Tirol (picture-alliance/dpa/A. Riedl)

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    Austrian ski regions end season early

    All ski areas in the Austrian provinces of Salzburg and Tyrol are ending the winter season early. Cable car operation will be discontinued as of Sunday (March 15, 2020). Hotels and accommodations will be closed from Monday. The provincial governments said that this should slow down the spread of the virus in the Alpine country. The two provinces account for most leading Austrian ski areas.

  • USA coronavirus Statue of Liberty in New York City (picture-alliance/dpa/J. D. Ake)

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    USA: Entry ban for Europeans

    Due to the spread of the coronavirus, the USA is imposing a general 30-day travel ban on people from Europe. The entry ban comes into force on Friday (March 13, 2020) at midnight (local time). It does not apply to US citizens residing in Europe who have tested negative for the pathogen. The United Kingdom is also exempted from the entry ban.

  • Tourists at Red Fort in New Delhi

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    India imposes entry ban

    India has declared all tourist visas invalid for 1 month because of the corona virus. Only travelers who are already in the country are allowed to stay, the Indian Ministry of Health announced on Wednesday (March 11, 2020). The entry ban is to last until April 15 for the time being.

  • Mount Everest as seen from Namche Bajar

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    China closes access to Mount Everest

    Climbing Mount Everest via the north side has been forbidden by Chinese authorities. The necessary permits for expeditions to the world’s highest mountain were withdrawn on Thursday (March 12, 2020).

  • Austria Coronavirus border checks (picture-alliance/AP Photo/K. Joensson)

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    Italy increasingly sealed off

    In order to reduce the spread, the border into neighboring Austria can only be crossed from Italy with a medical certificate. Slovenia has closed its border, and Albania has banned Italian air and ferry traffic. Many airlines have cancelled flights to Italy until at least 3 April. Germany, the UK, and Ireland tightened travel recommendations and called on their citizens to leave.

  • Italy cruise ship Costa Smeralda in the port of Civitavecchia (Reuters/G. Mangiapane)

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    Mediterranean cruises put on hold

    The Costa Crociere shipping company is cancelling all cruises in the Mediterranean for the time being. The cruises will be suspended until April 3, the Italian company announced on Tuesday (March 10). The measure affects thousands of passengers. Ships still operating in the Mediterranean will only call at Italian ports to let passengers disembark.

  • Germany Reichstag glass dome in Berlin (picture-alliance/Bildagentur-online/De Simone-AGF)

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    Reichstag dome closed for visitors

    The dome and roof terrace of the Reichstag parliament building in Berlin have been closed to visitors since Tuesday (March 10, 2020) until further notice to prevent the possible spread of the coronavirus. The walkable dome and the roof terrace are visited by more than 2 million people every year, according to the Bundestag.

  • Ski piste Piz Boe in Dolomites Italy (picture-alliance/Bildagentur-online/Schoening)

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    Winter sports season in Italy ended early

    All ski facilities in Italy have been closed since Tuesday (March 10, 2020) due to the corona crisis. Prior to this, hoteliers and cable car operators in the South Tyrol region (photo) had already agreed to close their facilities. South Tyrol is particularly popular with winter sports tourists from Germany and Eastern Europe. The closure is effective until at least April 3.

  • Coronavirus - Czech Republic border checks (picture-alliance/dpa/S. Kube)

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    Travel warnings and border controls

    The Czech Republic (picture) and Poland are carrying out checks at the border with Germany to protect against the spread of the coronavirus. Since Monday (March 9), travelers have faced random temperature checks. The German government has warned against travelling to risk areas. And air passengers from China, Japan, South Korea, Iran and Italy will have to expect controls when entering Germany.

  • Coronavirus - Italy- empty cafe tables in Venice (picture-alliance/dpa/C. Furlan)

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    Italy in crisis

    On March 8 the Italian government issued an entry and exit ban for the more than 15 million inhabitants of the northern Italian regions, which include the key business center Milan and the tourist magnet of Venice (photo). Cultural, sporting and religious events are also banned for visitors. Museums, cinemas and theaters remain closed nationwide.

  • Costa Fortuna cruise ship is seen near Phuket, Thailand.

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    Cruises a risk factor

    Repeatedly cruise ships have to be quarantined or prevented from docking. After cancellations in Thailand and Malaysia, the Costa Fortuna (photo) with 2,000 passengers, including 64 Italians, has been allowed to enter the port of Singapore. In Oakland, California, 2,000 passengers and 1,100 crew members of the Grand Princess are quarantined because 19 of them have tested positive for COVID-19.

  • Japan Tourism Coronavirus (picture-alliance/dpa/M. Taga)

    Coronavirus: The consequences for tourism

    Asia fears dramatic setbacks

    Sights in Asia are particularly affected by travel restrictions for Chinese tourists. Hotspots such as the Senso-ji temple (picture) in Tokyo and the temple complexes of Angkor Wat in Cambodia are reporting a sharp drop in visitors. On March 9, the Ministry of Tourism in Thailand reported a 44% drop for February. Tourism accounts for 11% of the gross domestic product.

    Author: Andreas Kirchhoff, Susan Bonney-Cox


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Article source: https://www.dw.com/en/living-in-rome-under-the-shadow-of-coronavirus/a-52773599?maca=en-rss-en-all-1573-rdf

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